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Old travel stories: Belize

I think it says a lot about Z and me that we invested so much more effort into planning our honeymoon than we did our wedding, and we chose Belize since it promised to cater to both of our passions: exploration (his) and lazing on books with beaches (mine). We went there in January 2007 and ever since it’s been our reference point for Things That Are Magical.

Although I had been apprehensive about navigating a foreign, densely-jungled country in airplanes the size of my sofa nothing untoward happened and I’ve ever since felt that pilots who don’t saunter up to you in shorts and slippers while chucking away the remains of a cigarette just aren’t living the right kind of life. Our first five days were spent in the jungle-happy mainland (Orange Walk) in Chan Chich lodge on a private nature reserve.

It was a breathtaking place – vivid with birds and monkeys and fermented oranges. The first couple of nights howler monkeys having it out sounded like someone being murdered, but eventually we more or less just slept through them. Between the fragrant air, the high ceilings and walls-as-blinds it was essentially like going to bed in the open – falling asleep was like floating in space with the occasional dream of jaguars . The 11 cabins of the Lodge were set far apart from each other and the seclusion of the place could be deceiving which everyone learned to their regret one day as on the way to dinner Z and I were treated to a full-frontal vision of a fresh-from the shower neighbour.

Small boy, big hat, passion for yellow flowers

Untamable toddlers and equally wild gardens = a love story.

A year ago today

Dandelion Feast

adding a redeeming quality to this otherwise uninspiring day

adding a redeeming quality to this otherwise uninspiring day

i carry your heart in my heart

Parenthood seems like a daily embodiment of Stockholm Syndrome, in which you passionately love your tormentor even though they wish you never to sleep, eat, use the bathroom or have sex in peace as long as they can help it. And you, sad tool, grow to like it or at least stop questioning it as something intrinsically wrong so that when you find youself facing an extended stretch of babyfree time you still wake up at 6:20 am because a timezone and several countries away your son is doing the same thing.

Since he was born I have not spent more than half-a-day away from Matei (in the early days
not so much a cause of celebration as BITTER ANGST and REGRET) and being apart now feels like having my heart scraped with sandpaper and then kicked for good measure. I am bereft and everything stabs at me – the sight of toddlers in supermarkets, the sound of a child crying, the scattered toys.

It feels strange to speak of loss in a context in which one’s child is neither lost nor dead, but merely on vacation, but I am heartbroken all the same. Z is very understanding of my sadness and coping mechanisms of choice (extended love affair with the internet, interrupted by occasioannal thoughts about cleaning) and he assures me that I will soon adapt to this punishing schedule of sleeping-in and evenings out and being responsible only for my own hygiene needs. That I will have the things that I most longed for – alcohol, freedom and the ability to restore television to its rightful place in my life.

Everyone else tells me how the baby’s longing for me has quickly been replaced by the baby’s crush on the workmen in the Belgrade flat (they let him climb the ladder and showed him everything in their toolbox- and doesn’t that sound so wrong). In short, my anxious ghost is being reassured on all fronts that there is nothing to worry about.

I’m glad to know he’s fine. I’m delighted he’s being so well looked after and having a better time than I could offer him and yes, I am ecstatic to be spending some alone-time with my husband and not worrying that our personal crescendo of joy will be interrupted by a crescendo from the other room.

For most of the working week I only spend about three-four hours a day with Matei and I thought ‘it’s not like I see him that much and that he will miss me putting him to bed and playing in the morning, and look how much better it will be for me to get all my work done and for him to spend three months running around in fresh air on the seaside’ except that I never thought how much I would miss those three hours per day.

He is my son. No matter how far he is I am still connected to him. My thoughts surround him. He is my heart incarnate and his absence is like the aching of a phantom limb.

Z, on gardening

N:Our plants seem diminished and sad. Perhaps I should pull up some of these weeds that have conquered the flowerbeds.

Z:Yes, it’s a possibility. On the other hand, our plants are so ungrateful, all: This soil is too hard! You don’t water me enough! Angle me more prosperously towards the sun! At least the bloody weeds prosper and don’t complain. Maybe we should keep them.

N:I wish there was a Lazy Gardener’s Question Time.

Teen Art Masterclass

Although I am in the present day struggling to populate my 4000 word due-in-less-than-a-week essay with worthy sentences, I can but witstfully remember the days (all ages ending in ‘een’) when output wasn’t the problem.

There were many masterworks from that period (including an illustrated two-volume opus, narrated by horses) which unfortunately has been lost to time and my haphazard manner of moving belongings from house to house. I live in hope that it might still turn up one day (along with an erotic comic I penned aged 12, with the aid of a pilfered Playboy and some Fashion Tracing Plates).

In the meantime, I can but offer you this sketch I doodled aged 13, as an expression of my nihilism and contempt for the measly trappings of life such as Maths Homework.

Hark! Behold, a beautiful-albeit-misunderstood young woman lies dead! An Angel retrieves her soul which has the misfortune of not only being Dead, but also Tired. Its shoulders wilt with existential ennui, its facial features are blurred at the futility of the shabbyness of both Life and Afterlife. The Weight and Oppression of the world is heavy upon them all.

Dreams of my father

My father has been dead for twenty years. Having lived with it for so long, in certain ways his absence is a relief. It is nice to be able to live out my life without worrying about the apoplexy that would follow every visible piercing or boyfriend and without the constant flux of his vanishings and reappearances.

Nowadays though, the part of him I remember the most is how beautiful he was and generous and funny and I miss him.

In the awful first years after he died, some of my most acute sadness came from being with the man who would become my stepfather. He was a kind man my stepdad, he still is, and he tried so very hard and I could feel even then he would be part of my life just as I knew that in this life I would have only one father – someone irreplacable to me, someone whose absence would be felt most sharply when people tried to act cheerful and carry on.

Years on I love my stepdad, but the part of me that belonged to my father is a part which no one is allowed to touch. Perhaps it’s love, or loyalty. Perhaps it’s due to my obsession with witnessing – with the idea that if I don’t hold him in my mind, don’t remember who he was and what he meant to me, then he will be lost. So I remember. I always remember.

My heart is no longer broken, my yearnining for him is more wistfulness than craving, but I will miss my father as long as I’m alive. I miss his physical body. I miss the possibility of being able to throw myself into his arms and hug him, feel myself being held. I miss the sound of his singing and our dancing in the living room.

I am not often visited by dreams of him, and when I am I tend to find it equally unexpected and delightful.

In my dream I am at a crossroads of time, in an unkown place – a spacious, airy house surrounded by cypress and lush green. My father appears midway through the dream. He is smiling. In the dream we are timeless, we wear different bodies – he is in his thirties, I am seventeen.

We smile at each other, we embrace – and I can smell the aftershave he wore, I can feel his arms around me – and something in me aches and something in me is fed.

My father rustles up some music and we dance and for a few minutes the pure joy of this sweeps me away, before the rational mind reasserts itself.

“How much time do we have?”
“Enough to enjoy the moment,” he replies, smiling.
“Why are you here?”
“As a gift. A boon for everything I’ve fucked up.”

And I don’t want to say anything else, only enjoy his presence because he is already slowing down in my dream and I can feel myself slipping away from it, suspended in the strange sensation of being in two worlds at once – I can feel my sleeping body on the sofa, but I also feel ths other body, this loved dream-self.

The pull of my earth body is savage as gravity and the house we inhabited is crumbling like the castle of the Goblin King in the Labyrinth and I wake and the Sense Of Loss sits by me, curled at my side as companionably as a cat. But I am wise to excesses of reality, so I shut my eyes and drift in the remnants of my dream and all I feel is bone-deep joy made sharper by its transience.

If Matei could write a diary

Dear Diary,

This day marks 15 and a half months of imprisonment in this frustrating world, and this miserable fleshly shell.

I hate the fact that I cannot watch airplanes every waking breathing moment of my day, and I hate having my nappy changed, but most of all I hate my mother. She’s such a bitch!

Take yesterday, for example. When I wished to be carried and elected to cast myself down on the pavement weeping brokenly to communicate this need she said: ‘Either walk or ride in the buggy’. Stupid cow! She just doesn’t understand! And then after she strapped me into that infernal wheeled contraption Against My Will and in clear defiance of my Curved Back of Rigor Mortis Posture she had the temerity to offer me a consolation biscuit!

A biscuit! The insult is really too much. I cast it down on the pavement in my rage. Pah! That is what I think of you and your BISCUIT, whore!

As if that wasn’t enough, then she wouldn’t let me drink from her bottle of ice tea! I couldn’t believe the betrayal I was witnessing. I felt in that moment that all I had ever wanted in this world was that bottle and our separation crushed my spirit. My heart is as biscuit crumbs beneath a cruel buggy wheel of rejection.

I weep, I weep, I weep. Come, sweet dummy! I hasten to my sleep.

A gift of dead birds is the sincerest form of flattery

Today, I can only offer you small bits and pieces of woe since I am ill, which is both wretched and dull.

1. Morose Frog Baby wants you to know that he also knows suffering:

2. George the Cat padded into the house from the garden, carrying a largish dead bird by its head all ‘Look at what I have brought for you Human Woman! It will look lovely on your bedspread.’

I screamed, and he panicked and fled with it from whence he came.
I’m sorry George! I appreciate the thought, even though I find it disguisting.

3.